Summary of the May 8 Lecture

"Walking Around the Imperial Palace: An Iconographic Review", by Dr. Raffaele A. Roncalli

The May meeting was glittering with ambassadors, as it was attended by their excellencies from France, Israel, the Netherlands and Thailand, not forgetting our own President (Ambassador of Greece). The interesting presentation was illustrated with slides from two projectors.

Dr. Roncalli began by stating that his subject had been covered once before in the ASJ; in 1877 Thomas McClatchie had spoken on "The Castle of Yedo", and his paper was to be found in Vol. 6 of the First Series of the ASJ Transactions, and was still a good source of information. The castle was built by Ohta Dohkan in 1456-57 on the site of three villages on swampy ground. Ohta was assassinated in 1486, and the castle was taken over by the Hohjoh family in 1524. The Hohjohs were overthrown by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who gave the eight Kantoh provinces to Tokugawa Ieyasu; Ieyasu moved to Edo in 1590, and the family occupied the castle until 1868. He undertook works to expand the castle in 1593, and after his death in 1616 these were completed by his son. The third shogun, Iemitsu, began the construction of the outer moat in 1636, and this was finished in 1661. Meanwhile the castle was damaged by an earthquake in 1647, and part of it, including the Tenshukaku (which was never rebuilt) was destroyed in the great Meireki fire of 1657; there was further earthquake damage in 1703, and fire damage in 1772 and 1844-1863. With the Meiji Restoration, the emperor moved from Kyoto to Edo on November 27th, 1868; the name of Edo was changed to Tokyo, and the castle, which had also sometimes been known as the Chiyoda Castle, was renamed Tokyo Castle. Another fire destroyed the emperor's residence in 1873; this was rebuilt as the Meiji Palace in 1888, and from that time Tokyo Castle became known as the Imperial Palace. The great Earthquake of 1923 brought down several gates, including the Ohtemon and the Hanzohmon, and the Meiji Palace was destroyed by fire following the air-raid of May 26th, 1945. In 1963 the Tohkagakudoh music hall was built in Kitanomaru for the birthday of the present Empress Dowager, and in 1968 the reconstruction of the Kyuuden (Imperial Palace) was completed.

After this brief historical introduction Dr. Roncalli proceeded to show his slides, first of the bronze statue of Ohta Dohkan by Asakura Fumio. Then came pictures of Hideyoshi, Ieyasu and Iemitsu from originals in the possession of Tokyo University, and a picture of Hideyoshi from Yoshitoshi's series "100 Aspects of the Moon" of 1888. Then the Emperor Meiji and Empress Shohken, the Emperor Taishoh and Empress Teimei, and the late Emperor with Empress Nagako were shown. The first view of the castle itself came from a screen painted in the 17th century before the Meireki fire and now in the Sakura City museum, but after that there was a ban on reproducing the whole castle for reasons of security. We also saw 17th-century maps of Edo showing the castle. Fanciful representations of Edo were seen in travellers' pictures appearing as illustrations in books and magazines. A triptych executed by Hiroshige III in 1888 showed the new Meiji Palace, and postcards showed the same building together with the fountain which survived the air-raid, and the stateroom and other interior views. An "ukiyoe" by Adachi Jinkoh showed the Prime Minister reading the new constitution to the emperor on February 11th, 1899, and the details of the interior decoration seen in this picture were clearly repeated in another triptych. There is a striking contrast between the ornate European style of this palace and the present palace, which is very simple, in pure Japanese style.

Proceeding to the area outside the palace, we saw first the Sakuradamon (originally called the Outer Sakuradamon, while the inner one is the Kikyohmon) in a 1905 picture with the arch commemorating the victory in the Russo-Japanese War in the foreground. A second picture was a winter scene from Koizumi Kishoh's "100 Pictures of Tokyo in Showa". It was by this gate that Ii Naosuke was assassinated in 1860, and this was shown in a print by Yoshitoshi. Proceeding in a clockwise direction, an early photograph of the moat by Felice Beato was contrasted with a picture of the same scene by Hiroshige I, a winter scene of the same by Hiroshige II in his "36 Views of Edo", and another by Ikkei (including Ii Naosuke's mansion); this last picture contained many people and showed the change in the styles of dress, whereas that of Hiroshige I had no people, and that of Hiroshige II only a few. The next picture was a lithograph made by G.V. Cappelletti in 1881 of a government building which in 1882 became the headquarters of the general staff until it was destroyed in the 1945 bombing. In this area, close to the Diet, there is a weeping willow tree, shown by a well in an old picture; Dr. Roncalli also showed a slide he had taken the day before of the same tree, though the well was overgrown. There had been a statue of Prince Arisugawa in front of the staff headquarters; it survived the bombing and now stands in front of the Metropolitan Library in Arisugawa Park. This area of the moat has been greatly changed because of the building of the expressway alongside.

The Hanzohmon is one of the oldest gates, and a print in the "100 Views of Edo" series shows the "Sannoh matsuri", held on June 15th by the Hie Jinja in Sannoh, in which the shogun rode to Hanzohmon in a procession headed by a rooster on a drum. Other pictures by Yoshitoshi ("100 Aspects of the Moon") and Chikanobu (1889 print) showed an elephant also in the procession. (It has been whimsically suggested that the name Hanzohmon comes from the fact that the gate is only half the width of an elephant! Other suggestions link it with ninja.) A 1930 picture by Koizumi shows cormorants on pine trees on the palace side of the moat. The birds killed the trees, and there are now dogwood trees there, of which Dr. Roncalli showed his own slide; the cormorants have been driven away by the highway.

One pleasurable experience in all ages has been walking around the castle moat. Paul Claudel, the French ambassador from 1921 to 1927, used to walk every day, and wrote a famous poem about it, while another Frenchman, Noel Nouet, made prints and drawings. In April one can walk under the cherry tree avenue along Chidorigafuchi to Kudan, where one comes to the Yasukuni Jinja, a shrine originally established in 1869 as a memorial ("shohkonsha") to those who died in the fighting accompanying the Meiji Restoration, but given its present name in 1879. In the outer precincts there is a bronze statue of Ohmura Masujiroh, victor in the battle against the Tokugawa partisans in Ueno and later the first Minister of War (assassinated in 1869). It was in this area that the first horserace in Tokyo took place, and a triptych of 1871 has an inscription with the first use of the word "keiba"; racing became so popular that the Emperor built a racecourse at Ueno. In those days one could still see the sea from Kudan, and a print by Ikkei showed the old lighthouse there, while others by him and Hiroshige showed the old tramway. In 1882 a museum was built there by Cappelletti, but it was destroyed in the 1923 earthquake, and the present museum is in Chinese style.

Proceeding further round, one comes to the Hirakawamon by the Palaceside Building. This was the entrance formerly used by the "daimyo", and has a wooden bridge reconstructed in the old style with "gibohshi". The next gate is the Ohtemon, and then one comes to the Kikyohmon, of which we saw a 1927 print by Yoshida Hiroshi. Going further along the Imperial Palace Plaza one comes to the Sakashitamon, shown in a print by Kawase Hasui and a Kobayashi Kiyochika print of the exit of the guard, while a triptych showed the arrival of the Emperor Meiji from Kyoto. The last feature of the Palace is the Nijuubashi. Here an old photo by Beato shows there were two bridges giving the appearance of a bridge in two layers. In the Plaza outside is an equestrian statue of Kusunoki Masashige, one of the "loyalists" on the side of the Emperor Godaigo. On the far side of the Plaza is the Daiichi Seimei Building, seen in a picture by Nouet, and onetime headquarters of General Douglas MacArthur, commander of the US occupation forces in Japan after World War II, who was shown in a print by S.K. Kanmei. Final slides showed scenes of the funeral of Meiji and the accession of Taishoh, with state coaches which came from England, and the last picture was a rendering of the Nijuubashi by Onchi Kohshiroh.

A short question time followed, and then the meeting closed with a vote of thanks proposed by the Thai ambassador, H.E. Mr. Chawat Arthayukti, who noted that the scenes of the palace had special meaning for himself and his colleagues, as they were presented to the Emperor there on their arrival.

Following the meeting, the assembled company had a chance to linger over a glass of wine and "otsumami" snacks.
Adapted from "The Asiatic Society of Japan Bulletin No. 6", June 1995, compiled by Hugh Wilkinson.
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